Chainmaille Wrapped Coins and Mirror

Happy 2016, everyone!!

Hope the new year finds you well, and all ready for a fantastic year ahead!

Me, as the ever diehard mailler, ringed in the new year with some new chainmaille projects (of course) of my own: Chainmaille wrapped objects.

Been seeing many talented maille artists' work in using chainmaille weaves to wrap all kinds of stuff, stones, bottles, disks, wind chimes, coins, you name it, but I'd never found the right projects for me, until now...

Yup, it's a 八卦鏡!  Jean has this on a plastic channel wrap that originally came with the mirror; but that wrap finally broke from exposure to the sun for many years.  Perfect timing for me to try my hands on replacing the wrap with metal rings!

So before I start on wrapping this 6" diameter mirror (and its separate cork backing), a little proof-of-concept is needed.

That's right, this POC is not anywhere close to what's finally on the mirror, and that's because I couldn't get this Japanese 2 in 1 based wrap to stay put around the mirror, no matter what... But I had no problem in closing the wrap on these two US nickles.

My guess of the issue is because this wrap doesn't have its own "structure", it mostly forms to the shape of whatever is being wrapped.  Plus, the "channel" depth of this wrap needs to come in more over the face of the coin, somewhat like 1/7 of the coin diameter, in order to securely hold in the object being wrapped.

1/7 of the diameter is OK on small objects like a coin of a donut pendant; but it won't look right on a mirror that's over 6" across, so...  the search was back on.

.............

Thanks to the internet, there is a huge collection of wrapped objects in pictures and in detail specs.  Almost too many to choose from :-)   In the end, I settled back on the good old Alligator Back, which is also the belly/base of all my chainmaille pet dragons :-)

The deep channel of Alligator Back can keep its shape with or without an object to hold onto.  In addition, I "cinched" the outside HP3in1 rings with the smaller rings in Euro6in1 (although in this case, it's really one ring thru 3 rings since they're on the edge.)

An extra piece of wire is also threaded thru the middle of Alligator Back, which is the center column of its Euro4in1, to give extra support to the wrap, as well as a separate and stronger point to connect the spiral chain on top.

Now it's all very secured, and very pretty :-)

Stats:

All jumprings are bright aluminum, 18 gauge SWG, 1.2 mm; power-coiled on 3/16" mandrel and saw cut on my Ringinator, except the outer edge rings on the Alligator Back are 1/4".

Yup, those metal rings are going to last a whole lot longer than the old plastic loop:-)

R&D - Some More Ring Cutting, Why Not?

This summer flew by fast before I realized it's almost gone.  I didn't maille much; just some experiments here and there; those were fun!

But I know there are quite a number of projects on my to-do list, waiting for me to get started.  Well, to be exact, they're waiting for the jump rings to be ready, namely several different sizes of niobium rings.  Time to cut some rings!!  Nothing like firing up a few power tools to get things going fast :-)

The first batch:  Some niobium rings in 1.3 mm wire, 1/4" ID, for a custom order of a Forget-Me-Not bracelet.

Yes, I'm starting from scratch, I mean, raw niobium wire, that is :-)  17 gauge SWG, at 1.3 mm thick, 20 feet long, just under 2.5 oz.  Power winding in 4 batches onto 1/4" transfer punch.

Yes, I know there are the messy over coiling on the ends.  They used to bother me a lot... Not any more; don't sweat the small stuff, I was told!

Here's why having a Ringinator is a major plus:  Cut off the messy ends, run the good coils through the ring cutter. And in no time, you get this!

Well, there were a few more steps in between... like washing, tumbling, sifting thru the stainless steel shots, and 2 rounds of QC: first one to separate the obvious scraps; second to pick out the defects, like over- or under-cuts, non-circulars, severely bruised, etc.  See the pile of short coils and squigglies?  I used to labor over a hand saw for hours on end (felt like it...) trying to recover them; not anymore; they go into other future projects and experiments!

Then I'm left with the pile on the right, 170+ nice, clean cut jump rings, ready to go.  As to the middle 5 rings, they are randomly picked out, properly closed to be measured for the actual ID entered on my spreadsheet.  Yes, good documentation is not only a virtue, it's a necessity, for a complicated computer system, as well as a lovely handmade chainmaille bracelet!

What have I learned from this batch of rings?  Mind the direction when winding wire.  Noticed the two rings above have different handedness?  The right-handed ring on the left, and the left-handed ring on the right.  Do they make any difference in the end product?  For the majority of weaves, probably not.  But I'll admit, having consistent ring handedness does seem to contribute to a smooth flow of hand movement during weaving.

What do you think?  Have you noticed any advantage or disadvantage in using mixed handedness of rings?  Or am I over analyzing and missing the fun?  LOL!

Next step in prep:  Add some colors!  Stay tuned ;-)

R&D - Saw-Cut Niobium Rings

This is something I had wanted to do even before I got my Ringinator :D

Specs

Niobium (yes, my favorite metal), 20 gauge AWG, half-hard, 0.2 oz, 144 coils on 3/32" mandrel, quick dips 3 times in anodizing bath, voltage 102, 85, 60, run thru Ringinator on 0.010" blade, with only soapy water and Rio Grande's Bur Life stick, loose rings anodized again at 35 volt for cut ends.

Counted 96 good ones.  Not bad for a first try.

What have I learned?

1. Get some real cutting fluid for the Ringinator.  Niobium loads up very fast on the blade, even at this thin gauge...
2. When cut by hand with a jeweler's saw, 8/o blades will do.  But do it in short coils, wrapped in masking tape; they heat up fast!
3. Use low speed on the drill.  Gauge for gauge, temper for temper, niobium is harder to cut than bronze or sterling silver.
4. Up the last anodizing voltage before cutting, to above 63, maybe, so that the final dip after cutting have more choices.
5. For large volume of rings in common sizes, it's still more economical to buy them!!

I thoroughly enjoyed this experiment, and will definitely do it again.

What do you think? ;-)

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